skycontroller 2 solaris mod 2020 Help!

[Swordfish]

Hello guys

Ive just got the solaris mod for mi skc2 (blacksticks and cilinder batery) Thing is that is veri complicated for me, iam looking for some extra help for do it. I hope someone could help me out with this.
Have a nice day and thanks for your time

 

[mikeexplorer]

The black stick version is actually easier to install because the wifi connections are already there. You don't have to cut traces and solder on the UF.L connectors which are very small.

What is the issue is the source of power for the booster kit. If you are using an apple product, you can disable the charging from the USB port, because that power is needed for the booster kit, the single battery cannot provide enough voltage to power the boosters.

I use android devices which charging cannot be disabled, so there are two things you can do, one is to modify the USB cable, slit it apart and find the +5V line (red), cut it and add an inline 50-100 ohm resistor. This keeps the connection but prevents charging. Since I had my controller apart anyway, I modified it at the USB port. I lifted the connection for the 5V, and soldered in a 100 ohm resistor inline, then took the full 5V to the booster kit. This has worked for me and I don't have to carry a modified cable.

Mike

 

[Swordfish]

The black stick version is actually easier to install because the wifi connections are already there. You don't have to cut traces and solder on the UF.L connectors which are very small.

What is the issue is the source of power for the booster kit. If you are using an apple product, you can disable the charging from the USB port, because that power is needed for the booster kit, the single battery cannot provide enough voltage to power the boosters.

I use android devices which charging cannot be disabled, so there are two things you can do, one is to modify the USB cable, slit it apart and find the +5V line (red), cut it and add an inline 50-100 ohm resistor. This keeps the connection but prevents charging. Since I had my controller apart anyway, I modified it at the USB port. I lifted the connection for the 5V, and soldered in a 100 ohm resistor inline, then took the full 5V to the booster kit. This has worked for me and I don't have to carry a modified cable.

Mike

Ok thanks Mike, Paul is Also helping me with this one.

Could You give me some tips for soldering in the USB and how is the procedure for lifting the USB 5v connection? And another one, ir won't work if i don't do the resistance thing?
Thanks for your time Mike

 

[Swordfish]

Hello Mike and Paul

Just finished the mod, i hope is all good jaja i have tried yo follow your instructions. I attached some photos for You to see if ir is all fine...one of the USB legs is pretty "fat" but the soldering looks firm.

 

[Swordfish]

Hello again guys

I tested the mod and ir works just fine no problem connection betewen the skc2 and the bebop 2. But i have another problem
Auriga bebop don't get the skc2 (i was using it beacause freeflight wanted to upgrade bebop firmware version) freeflight opens but ir Will ask me to chance for the newest firmware, and solaris data that se must use de 4.4.2.
The strange thing was that yesterday at night i didnt have problem with Auriga when i did mi first test.
I tested with a modifieded USB with resistor and with a normal usb

 

[mikeexplorer]

4.4.2 is a preferred firmware, but I have been using 4.7.1 with no issues. The latest firmware won't interfere with the booster kit, the claim is the newer firmware may cause the drone to fall out of the sky.

Now two weeks ago my drone did crash hard, but it was caused by a failed propeller and it was quite cold out. I have parts on order to fix it.

 

[Swordfish]

Hello guys
Now I have a strange problem ... if I connect the two antennas of the control, it begins to behave strangely, it loses signal. It also loses connection with the drone when I remove the usb cable. Another thing that happens with the two connected antennas is that it takes longer to connect with the drone when it is turned on.
but if I remove one of the two antennas, it stops behaving strangely ... any ideas?
i leave pictures of the little chips near the usb, i think i damage one but i'm not sure

 

[Waldo Pepper]

Hello,

Everything looks good, except for C1703 component, looks like a piece of solder spilled onto this component, or a scratch? This may be part of the problem? if it’s solder, cut off at the point it’s soldered on. Hopefully, everything is alright.

Removing the USB cable will disconnect drone with app, and taking longer to connect is an issue I’ve encountered many times. Sometimes, I’ll need to reboot my phone or iPad. That fixes the problem. Other times, it’s the drones fault. If an antenna cable is not connected to mother board correctly, it will not connect to app.

Don’t get discouraged, we’ve all been through trails and errors working with our Bebop 2 and controllers. Ive ruined several controllers, experimenting with mods and such. Have patience, you’re doing great your work is very good. Could be minor, keep at it.

Keep searching and fix these bugs, it’s a learning experience. Before I forget, don’t remove antenna cables when controller is powered on, or turned on with antenna cables disconnected. This may damage the amplifiers or antenna panel

I have a spare modified controller, Maybe if you can’t get this one going I’ll let one go to you. Keep us posted.

Paul

 

[Waldo Pepper]

I haven’t flow a Bebop 2 in about 5-6 months, have six of them 5 are modified. Can’t remember what the latest firmware is, I’ll fly a couple this weekend get reacquainted with them. I stopped using the Auriga app, can remember why. Strictly stay with Freeflight now, looking forward to flying bebop 2 again.

Keep us posted,
Paul

 

[Waldo Pepper]

Just checked, still on 4.71 app, I’ll continue to use this firmware.

Paul

 

[mikeexplorer]

I would double check as Swordfish has said the soldering. It is easy to bridge a connection. Use a magnifier to look at everything carefully. The amount of solder on those connections is a bit much.

Solaris did release a utility that is a great troubleshooting aid called "pes" it also has features to unlock the full capability of the drone but you must email him your serial numbers to register.

For troubleshooting the antennas, you do not need to register. He made a great video showing how to use pes. When I did my first controller I had a dead side on the controller which killed one of the boosters. This utility showed me the problem

 

[Swordfish]

Hello,

Everything looks good, except for C1703 component, looks like a piece of solder spilled onto this component, or a scratch? This may be part of the problem? if it’s solder, cut off at the point it’s soldered on. Hopefully, everything is alright.

Removing the USB cable will disconnect drone with app, and taking longer to connect is an issue I’ve encountered many times. Sometimes, I’ll need to reboot my phone or iPad. That fixes the problem. Other times, it’s the drones fault. If an antenna cable is not connected to mother board correctly, it will not connect to app.

Don’t get discouraged, we’ve all been through trails and errors working with our Bebop 2 and controllers. Ive ruined several controllers, experimenting with mods and such. Have patience, you’re doing great your work is very good. Could be minor, keep at it.

Keep searching and fix these bugs, it’s a learning experience. Before I forget, don’t remove antenna cables when controller is powered on, or turned on with antenna cables disconnected. This may damage the amplifiers or antenna panel

I have a spare modified controller, Maybe if you can’t get this one going I’ll let one go to you. Keep us posted.

Paul


There is Any whay to repair that component? I apllied too mutch soldering and a bit went to that component, when i suck the solder i think i have damaged that component . Strange thing is that i disconnect one of the skc2 antennas and the mod work but when i connect the two antennas it won't work. Maybe i should put the resistance in the USB and boy un the cable?

 

[mikeexplorer]

What do you mean by when you connect one of the antennas it works but not both? Do you mean the booster kit? Try swapping the boosters around, they are the same electrically.

Mike

 

[Swordfish]

Yes i mean the booster antennas

 

[mikeexplorer]

The booster boards have a small LED on them, when both are plugged in, are the LED's lit ?

 

[Swordfish]

The booster boards have a small LED on them, when both are plugged in, are the LED's lit ?

Yes leds are on in both boards. Another, the resistance mod, is the same if i do ir in the board or in the cable? One of My phones behave strange when connected to skc2 but if i connect to a PC ir works fine

 

[mikeexplorer]

The resistor mod is the same if you do the cable or on the board. It is easier to do the cable with less chance of damage. You can use a 33 ohm or 56 ohm resistor.

 

[Swordfish]

I used a 100ohm resistor, too much? Sometimes the cellphone do strange things when connected

 

[Swordfish]

Another one guys, how could i verify if all the chips that are close to the USB are fine? How could i meassure them with the tester?

 

[mikeexplorer]

I used a 100ohm resistor, too much? Sometimes the cellphone do strange things when connected

I used a 100 ohm on my controller and it has not caused an issue. You can use a 56 ohm which would allow a small amount of charging but would still be within the limits.

What do you mean by "strange things" ?