Propeller numbering!!!

[Maxgi]

Hello everybody. I was seeing the numbering on the propellers. Four propellers have the number 4, the other four have the number 2, is this correct? The eight escort propellers, four have the number 3, the other four the number 2. ????!!!! E the propellers whit the number 1? My Anafi makes a lot of noise in my opinion and it came to my mind to control the propellers....

 

[Dirk_ANAFI]

There is nothing published about these numbers yet. So forget them.

Important are only the arrows.

The 1st picture shows the LEFT rotating props belonging to the motors front-left and rear--right.
The 2nd picture shows the RIGHT rotating props belonging to the motors front-right and rear-left.

 

[Maxgi]

Ok. Thank you. In the picture you see a chipped propeller. Is it to be replaced?

 

[Dirk_ANAFI]

I would do it because this defect probably can cause noise.
Perhaps such prop defects are an unbalance too that may cause vibrations.

 

[Jagerbomb52]

If it was me I would save it for a spare. Thats a very small chip and looks to have no cracks coming from it so it could come in handy if you don't have spares.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk

 

[Maxgi]

Ok. After you answered me i did some research on the internet and i read that even a dirty propeller can create problems. The change immediately.

 

[Zamzara]

I think the numbers are probably manufacturing batches, as my originals were all 1, my spares 2, and my newer spares 4.

 

[Zamzara]

On the question of the numbers on propellors: I think I've figured it out. They are a manufacturing batch number.

I changed one half of a pair and the motor had a noticeable imbalance until I changed the other side of it to a prop from the same batch. So the idea seems to be make sure each motor has a pair with the same number, as coming from the same batch they should then have closer tolerances.

 

[MustangPhil]

My job was related to plastic injection molding, and usually, the number that can be read on a plastic part is not the batch number (it would be complicated to change it on the mold for each batch), but the number of the mold cavity (the ‘print’).

Imagine a mold that produces the Anafy propellers, it could be constituted of 8 cavities that would allow production of 8 propellers at a time for each injections.
Let’s say 4 props left and 4 props right.
Each of 8 props would have its own mark (1/2/3/4) and a left or right triangle to indicate CCW or CW props.
The advantage of invidual markings is to know if a dimensional problem occurres or a thermal problem, which props are affected to allow proper modifications on the mold.

So my guess is you can mix numbers (but still be careful with the orientation of the triangle that states the rotation direction of the prop)

 

[The man with the drone]

Ok. Thank you. In the picture you see a chipped propeller. Is it to be replaced?

Hi
I think it's problem with propeller who arrive in screws.
What's to be done do not damage the propellers after 5-6 hours for use???
That's how it is at my drone.

 

[Dirk_ANAFI]

After about 120 flights mine are looking equal.
I still keep on using them and do not exchange them for this reason.
I think there is no way to shield that the propellers touch the other screw/part of the other propeller.

 

[Rocky the FS]

...What's to be done do not damage the propellers after 5-6 hours for use???.....

When you take it out of the case, keep the props in the same overlapping configuration prior to take-off. Set them up that way before any subsequent take-offs.
I have 38 flights and no nicks at all.

 

[The man with the drone]

After about 120 flights mine are looking equal.
I still keep on using them and do not exchange them for this reason.
I think there is no way to shield that the propellers touch the other screw/part of the other propeller.
[/QUOTE]

I changed the propeller so it would not risk anything.

 

[Jagerbomb52]

I did a slow motion video of the start up and stopping of the props. I had to watch it frame by frame in a video editor to actually see the results. By having the trailing sides up against the hub was the best for take off. Its when the props\motor stops that the prop slams into the hob causing possible damage. A few months back there was a long post about this and many tests where done.

 

[The man with the drone]

When you take it out of the case, keep the props in the same overlapping configuration prior to take-off. Set them up that way before any subsequent take-offs.
I have 38 flights and no nicks at all.


I'll take your advice into consideration.Thanks!

 

[The man with the drone]

I did a slow motion video of the start up and stopping of the props. I had to watch it frame by frame in a video editor to actually see the results. By having the trailing sides up against the hub was the best for take off. Its when the props\motor stops that the prop slams into the hob causing possible damage. A few months back there was a long post about this and many tests where done



Thanks for the reply.I'll be more careful in the future.

 

[Dirk_ANAFI]

The "trailing side" of a prop:
This is the thinner edge? Right?

 

[Jagerbomb52]

Correct

 

[The man with the drone]

Yes, right back.And only there.

 

[Jagerbomb52]

From the older post about this that I cannot seem to find right now someone actually had made a computer model showing how the props react when starting up.