SkyShit Booster mods for BB2 any good?

[Skydreamer]

Mike,something is wrong with your booster or installation work...i am using older skyshit booster on both skycontroller 2 and sc2,i have accross the street building with huge omni antennas with some kind of extender and they took all 2.4ghz Channels from 1 to 11....my anafi stops and rth after 190 meters,my bebop2 with skyshit goes to 1km and i usually turn around because of the trees that are in thee way,not because poor signal,i always have full (4)wifi bar.....i am not sure if i posted this video in this topic but this is small test i did with high and moderate wifi interferance,again i had full Wifi bars when i turned around,same spot i get only 700meters with anafi....check my wifi signal at the start,its -1db ?....

 

[mikeexplorer]

Looking at your video and comparing it to my tests, there is a big difference. When I replaced the UFL connection that popped off I did continuity tests as I posted above to verify the connection. I also verified that I severed the original traces so the wifi signal will route through the boosters.

I saw no difference between my two drones, so it is unlikely its on the drone side. I also posted how I connected the booster to the drone to verify I connected it to the right antenna output on the drone.

Any suggestions on what I can do next?

Mike

 

[mikeexplorer]

Oh an low altitude flights show no difference in distance compared to stock.

 

[Skydreamer]

When you place sc2 next to bebop 2 what is the signal strenght shown in auriga bebop

 

[mikeexplorer]

I don't have that app, but with using Virbedit the wifi strength is shown on screen. The first two are from yesterday. The second image the drone was about 20 feet away from me when I launched. The third image was taken back when the system was stock (A launch to look over the demolition of a building)

The image capture is taken during launching. Is this enough or should I buy that app?

Mike

 

[Skydreamer]

Hi mike,here is few pictures i made indoors(bebop was on the floor.)
1st picture is boosted bebop 2 + boosted sc2 at 6feet distance (-6db).

2nd picture is boosted bebop 2 +boosted sc2 at 7 yards (-28db).

3th picture is boosted bebop 2 + sc2 (NOT boosted) at 6 feet (-33 db).

frequency is 2.4ghz Manual,Channell 6,device is set to airplane mode, you can simulate same test and compare to numbers i am getting......

 

[mikeexplorer]

Ok I will do that and post my results.

 

[mikeexplorer]

Here are my results, I purchased the app.

First picture, about 4 feet from controller.
Second picture, about 5 yards (15 feet)
Third picture, boosters turned off in controller (I have it switch controlled)

Seems similar to yours

Mike

 

[Skydreamer]

Signal seems to be fine......you should really get much more range than whatever you getting now....i would check all connection,make sure there is no power tripping,make sure booster is connected to primary side of board in bebop 2......

 

[mikeexplorer]

Above in this thread I posted how I connected the booster to the Bebop 2, you said it was correct.
What do you mean by power tripping?

I still have one drone that is stock. should I connect to that one to compare?

Mike

 

[mikeexplorer]

Hi Mike, Please see video. If you are not familiar with the command line. Please tell someone who can help you out. Usually a high school student will do. It can sort out your problem effectively.
See my latest development and contribution.

I have no problem using a command line. I will look this video over and do what it instructs. The download on your site says its a demo version, but since I purchased a kit, how do I get the full version?

Mike

 

[mikeexplorer]

Please check email.

Yes I got the email. I also watched the video and I can handle the procedures to troubleshoot the kit. I will do that within a few days. Have stuff to do this week. I will email you back the information you requested,
Thank you.

Mike

 

[mikeexplorer]

I watched the video and followed the steps. I had some problems getting things to work. the adb included in the archive was missing .dll files but I was able to find it online and download it. Telnet is not available by default in windows 10 so I had to find out how to enable it. I was using the pes that was downloaded from the website, Sol sent me the full version, but the troubleshooting section is what is important right now.
Oh and I had to disable windows firewall and defender to allow access.

I got as far as showing both the drone and skycontroller on screen. I am using my second drone (both are Bebop 2) and both have booster kit installed. Early indications look like one of the boosters in the controller is not working at all. It also looks like the drone's booster is connected to A1 instead of A0 if I am reading the screen right. I also have to get the 5 meter (16 feet) more accurate, The room I was using isn't 16 feet long so the drone was out in the hallway. So the numbers itself are probably a bit off.

In the skycontroller, which is A0 and A1? I am betting the booster board with the dim LED is the one where the issue is.

Mike

 

[mikeexplorer]

Dug into the drone and controller today in detail. I could only get them apart 15 feet, not 16 but it had to do. The screenshots are as follows.


01 - Skycontroller & Bebop 2 15 feet apart as-is , boosters on
02 - Skycontroller & Bebop 2 15 feet apart as-is , boosters off
03 - Right foot covered up (Bebop 2)
04 - Left foot covered up (Bebop 2)
05 - Skycontroller opened up (Antenna laying down)
06 - Skycontroller left booster power disconnected
07 - Skycontroller Right Booster power disconnected
08 - Skycontroller Booster Bypassed

Attached is a picture where I used the antenna wires to basically bypass the boosters to return it to stock. (boosters removed) This was AFTER I went through with a meter to verify all the soldered connections. (I couldn't take a picture while using my meter)

My conclusion is I damaged the A1 antenna output on the Skycontroller while installing the kit and it is no longer outputting any signal. This probably explains why that booster board's LED is dim.

 

[mikeexplorer]

I do have a spare skycontroller, but its the black joystick type (I have a bebop 2 Power kit) could I transfer the boosters to this controller? It looks like it may not require soldering as a quick peek inside shows RF cables already in place. I will also have to replace this controller so would I be better off finding another revision 3 controller? (black joystick edition) for a second kit install?

Mike

 

[Waldo Pepper]

I do have a spare skycontroller, but its the black joystick type (I have a bebop 2 Power kit) could I transfer the boosters to this controller? It looks like it may not require soldering as a quick peek inside shows RF cables already in place. I will also have to replace this controller so would I be better off finding another revision 3 controller? (black joystick edition) for a second kit install?

Mike

Mike,

ive gone back to using the original SC2 with Solaris most recent booster setup, the SC2P (Power) edition controllers are giving me problems with disconnect, or shutting off during flight. Both my Power controllers are acting the same, same issues. So I went back with to the original SC2 with square battery, These continue to operate great no issues.

If you’re experiencing Controller issues with a Power black edition SC2P controller (round cylinder battery), switch back to the original controller with square battery.

Good luck
Paul

 

[mikeexplorer]

Looking online for spares, I did purchase another black joystick version , I am seeing finding replacement batteries for the older one (square battery) are hard to come by. I haven't seen much as far as a replacement for this battery, did I miss something?

There is an issue with putting the booster kit in the version 3 controller because it needs a supply of power, shown in the documents tapping the USB connector for the needed power since the battery is only 3.7 volts compared to the older one that supplies 8.3 volts. The problem comes into play with android devices which is what I use. The USB port also charges the device which does not leave enough power for the boosters.

I did some tests and I found if I put a 100 ohm resistor inline with the USB port on the +5V line, it will fool the device into thinking its charging, AND still allow for data communication (you can't just sever the 5 volt line or it will never see the controller) it will limit charge current to 50ma.

Mike

 

[mikeexplorer]

Well I found a version 2 of the controller on ebay (silver sticks) so I grabbed it in case the black edition gives me problems. I also ordered another booster kit (I do have a third drone to modify anyway)
Ill see if my idea works with the resistor to prevent the phone from charging., if not, Ill use the other controller. One way I am going to get this booster kit working

 

[Waldo Pepper]

Well I found a version 2 of the controller on ebay (silver sticks) so I grabbed it in case the black edition gives me problems. I also ordered another booster kit (I do have a third drone to modify anyway)
Ill see if my idea works with the resistor to prevent the phone from charging., if not, Ill use the other controller. One way I am going to get this booster kit working

Good job Mike,

With the silver stick model, try soldering the on/off switch power wires to lower board bypassing the USB port. This will eliminate charging phone, This original older controller setup is actually best for the mid-2020 version booster setup. That’s from my experience, low maintenance and less issues. Plus, still have about 6 square batteries on hand, so I’m good with batteries for these older silver stick controllers.

Good luck,
Paul

 

[mikeexplorer]

Good job Mike,

With the silver stick model, try soldering the on/off switch power wires to lower board bypassing the USB port. This will eliminate charging phone, This original older controller setup is actually best for the mid-2020 version booster setup. That’s from my experience, low maintenance and less issues. Plus, still have about 6 square batteries on hand, so I’m good with batteries for these older silver stick controllers.

Good luck,
Paul

That is what I did with my original. Tapped power right from the battery and ran it to a switch & LED.

I am probably going to have to look for an aftermarket option for the battery. The controller I bought does not include the battery, and I didn't find any for sale.

Mike